Nativity

the church of the nativity

Quickly one guide got off the bus and another one joined us as we were headed over to the West Bank to the church of the Nativity.  For many folks, it was the first time that they encountered the security wall.  I explained to folks about the safety it has provided on one hand, and the ways it has disrupted families, routes and even people’s livelihoods. I explained about the different organizations that relate to the wall, those who support, those who want it torn down and others who want it built less obtrusively.  Once we made it through, we were throngs of people looking at the different sections of the Church of the Nativity.  Unfortunately, the line was so long to see the spot believed to be Jesus’ birthplace that we did not stay.  We did a get a great tour of the other sections, which included one church space entirely filled with scaffolding.  We were all in good spirits (though I was still feeling poorly) as we made our way back to the bus.  We stopped at a gift shop where everyone went in and I slept.

Arriving at the hotel, I did not pass go, collect 200 dollars or eat dinner, I went straight to bed.

Going to church on Mt. Scopus

After the quickest of stops to drop off our luggage at the Ambassador Hotel in E Jerusalem where Revs.  Margaret and Jill are able to print out the Sunday worship service, we headed to Mt Scopus to find an area that overlooks Jerusalem. High from the hill, Jerusalem displayed itself like a treasure to be discovered.  Still feverish and nauseated, I sat to the side and let the sounds and prayers wash over me.  Hearing people sing Morning had Broken as one of the hymns was quite lovely and I mustered strength to pass the peace.  The way the service was put together was explained by Jill and Margaret with Bunny and Barbara helping.  I imagine planning an ecumenical Christian service has it challenges—I suppose Jews face this as well when it comes to beloved melodies vs. other choices and the amount of the service that is done.  Margaret preached about the beatitudes, for which, she has written a curriculum for Presbyterian women’s study.  Closing with a hymn, we left the afternoon sun behind as we made our made to Bethlehem.  The third faith has led us in prayer and it felt complete.  Even better, the checkpoint and the flies seemed far away, we were calm and serene.

Asst Pictures

 At the Masjid

 Leaving Cairo

The Lord and the Flies

Though I didn’t feel quite right, I chalked it up to travel and spotty sleep so I worked out anyway early Sunday morning.  Shortly afterwards, I knew I was going to have problems.  We arrived at the Allensby Bridge checkpoint between Jordan and Israel and the line was long and there seemed like little movement.  We were instructed to stay on the bus, which we did for quite awhile.   From the bus we could see the long line of people with barely any movement.

After 45 or so minutes, the bus moved and we were all excited that we had been given permission to move to the empty tourist line, but all we did was make a circle and end up where we were.  Waiting even longer, we began to get very frustrated—though I expressed to some that people have to live with this daily.  With the bus door open, I tried speaking to one of the Israeli soldiers to determine the issue.  Finally, one came by. There were already mumblings on the bus why it was taking so long.  It turns out that the computers were down, but I was at least able to convince the guard Liad (all of 22) to escort 8 or so of us to the WC.  During our brief walk, I tried to schmooze my best—and whether it was the computers back on-line or the “nice rabbi with the Muslims”.

Getting through felt like another hour, especially when Plemon explained to the Passport control that a number of the Muslims on our trip need their passports stamped on a separate sheet of paper.  I finally stood behind with him my yarmulke and the other guard started to speak with me.  She was fascinated that I was a rabbi.  “Really?  Wearing cool sunglasses?”  She asked, “You do Bat Mitzvah for girls?  With talit and everything?  They read from the Torah?”  She giggled like the teenager she was and she grabbed the women next to her to repeat everything I had just said.  At the very least, we went through this part quickly.  The rest of the procedures took about half an hour but finally we made it through to our guide George and our new bus!

When we got on board, it was filled with flies.  Dozens of flies.  Jokes of biblical plagues were worn out quickly. George made some oblique explanation and suggested after ten minutes of having flies brush up against us and land on us that we open the window to let them out.  It did reduce the number, but at that point all I wanted to do was shower.  Not to mention, I was starting to burn up!

It was already mid afternoon and we off our schedule.

This Souks!

a clip of  the siouk

Travel days take a toll but they build group solidarity if they are not too unbearable. As we leave Egypt, we fly to Amman and then stay the night and wake up to drive to Jerusalem. Don’t as we too explain our circuitous routes, perhaps we are following one of the “possible” Exodus trails.

Before leaving, we stopped at a papyrus museum which was a pleasant surprise because of the quick witted Fatimah who showed us the remarkable traits of papyrus and how it is made from the plant. She was practically a comic who had a great schtick. Most of the pilgrims, bought beautiful designs including the story of lovers and the beautiful family tree where birds represent different members of the family.

Then we stopped at a downtown Souk in Cairo which was great sightseeing. Rev. Margaret and I quickly walked down the narrow areas looking at the brightly colored clothes, the containers of fruits, nuts and spices which looked like an artist’s palate and the piles of tchockes. Shopkeepers beckoning at us, using lines like “It doesn’t cost to look?” or “I only want your money”; they pointed to must have scarves, blouses, bookmarks and pyramid paperweights which most likely were made in China.
Despite being recommended not to (for worry of getting lost), we ducked down a side street that opened up to a beautiful ancient mosque. We watched a young boy lose a handful of pita from a box on top of his head. We were dismayed to see him pick them up and place them back in the box with the help of a man. Worse, he did it again as he lost balance . Margaret and I debated whether the 20 second rule applied on a dirty street. I think not!

It has been great to have a friend like Margaret on the trip who sees the world with both clarity and complexity. She is brilliant, has an infectious laugh that can be heard blocks away and because of this she is always good for a laugh: giving and a receiving.

The group then went on a river Nile sailboat. Needing some space I stayed on the bus and Rev. Jill stayed with me where upon we had a great conversation about progressive approaches to Judaism and Christianity. People had a great time on the boat and was grateful for a nice breeze since Cairo was unseasonably hot--10 degrees celsius higher than normal.

I worked on the blog as we waited for our flight which was tolerable. I sat next to a sheik in a white robe. The people further back were tormented by loud and rambunctious teens. It enraged Carolyn to no end, which while not fun for her is entertaining to hear her colorful description of the children and what she hoped would happen to them.

The hotel room was tiny but oh the workout room! It was great.

The time of seeing each other as enemies is out.

I feel fortunate for my time with Nassar---his stories of growing up in the time of segregation and integration bring to life a facet of the experience that I have studied and read about. The more people I know, the more it becomes textured and illustrated powerfully. While there are moment so of solemnity, he tells his story with a patience and a faith that only emerges from the most perseverant soul who knows hope triumphs. I find myself paying attention aas he slowly speaks measuring his words knowing their worth. As our group photographer, I have downloaded nearly 2000 of his pictures many of which are on the blog and many will begin to appear.
Each morning I hear him leave shortly after the faint call for Muslim prayer at 4:30 am. I must have been so exhausted because I slept through the call, his leaving and his return. He wakes me up with just enough time to pack and get ready for a demonstration and explanation of the Juma’ah prayer. Having prayed with Muslims many time I am able to follow the explanations. Each of the Muslims took part explaining the service, chanting in Arabic, reading the translations. Imam Plemon gave a teaching which was oriented to interfaith connections. He explained that it is common for him particularly after returning home on a trip like this he would give the same talk—it was not just for us. He combined Koran, with Imam WD Mohammed, MLK Jr., the Dalai Lama impressing upon us our common humanity.
I was particularly impressed by a quote from Imam WD Mohammed, bless his memory, that Plemon shared and I would like to share with you:

The time of seeing each other as enemies is out. We must be pleased to see Muslims being good Muslims, to see Christians being good Christians, Jews being good Jews. We must want success for any people, regardless of religious who believe in goodness and contribute to the good of human life and the future. We must come together and trust, respect and appreciate our common essence and sensitivities as human beings. Let each of us work for a productive mind that will enter and affect a change of the soul not just for one people but for the good of all people.

A beautiful morning and it just started.

Shabbat Dinner

As it happened coincidentally, we were all scattered for Friday night dinner and the Jews ended up gravitating together. Z smiled and said “this” I could do every Friday night. It was a gentle and sweet moment and I could feel the need for a little more time for Shabbat to sink in was necessary and since a Shabbas dinner is a central part of the connection and the practice, we were continuing our Shabbat experience. We began to share with each other our Shabbat practices, Betsy spoke of light Shabbat candles every Friday except when she was an usher at her one monthly service at Temple Sinai. Her grand niece said aren’t you lonely lighting Shabbat candles by yourself. She laughed and said, “Of course, not.” She then said some Fridays when she doesn’t feel like braving the dark or the traffic, she will go on line and fine Temple Sinai streaming their services and it allows her a connection. As one of the Hebrew school teachers, the streamed services allow her to watch all of her students even when she cannot be there since they are stored.

I laughed and explained to her that at my first suggestion of streaming services had been quickly shot down at CBH. She said that the debate at Temple Sinai was mostly whether it would encourage people to stay home, but it has not. We began to discuss the various ways streaming was making connections for people in hospitals, the homebound, people around the world . It sounds like all up sides—even the fear that it profanes Shabbat feels diminished by the importance of connections. But as we all knew just by being with each other, nothing replaces being with other people face to face