Nativity

the church of the nativity

Quickly one guide got off the bus and another one joined us as we were headed over to the West Bank to the church of the Nativity.  For many folks, it was the first time that they encountered the security wall.  I explained to folks about the safety it has provided on one hand, and the ways it has disrupted families, routes and even people’s livelihoods. I explained about the different organizations that relate to the wall, those who support, those who want it torn down and others who want it built less obtrusively.  Once we made it through, we were throngs of people looking at the different sections of the Church of the Nativity.  Unfortunately, the line was so long to see the spot believed to be Jesus’ birthplace that we did not stay.  We did a get a great tour of the other sections, which included one church space entirely filled with scaffolding.  We were all in good spirits (though I was still feeling poorly) as we made our way back to the bus.  We stopped at a gift shop where everyone went in and I slept.

Arriving at the hotel, I did not pass go, collect 200 dollars or eat dinner, I went straight to bed.

Going to church on Mt. Scopus

After the quickest of stops to drop off our luggage at the Ambassador Hotel in E Jerusalem where Revs.  Margaret and Jill are able to print out the Sunday worship service, we headed to Mt Scopus to find an area that overlooks Jerusalem. High from the hill, Jerusalem displayed itself like a treasure to be discovered.  Still feverish and nauseated, I sat to the side and let the sounds and prayers wash over me.  Hearing people sing Morning had Broken as one of the hymns was quite lovely and I mustered strength to pass the peace.  The way the service was put together was explained by Jill and Margaret with Bunny and Barbara helping.  I imagine planning an ecumenical Christian service has it challenges—I suppose Jews face this as well when it comes to beloved melodies vs. other choices and the amount of the service that is done.  Margaret preached about the beatitudes, for which, she has written a curriculum for Presbyterian women’s study.  Closing with a hymn, we left the afternoon sun behind as we made our made to Bethlehem.  The third faith has led us in prayer and it felt complete.  Even better, the checkpoint and the flies seemed far away, we were calm and serene.

Asst Pictures

 At the Masjid

 Leaving Cairo

The Lord and the Flies

Though I didn’t feel quite right, I chalked it up to travel and spotty sleep so I worked out anyway early Sunday morning.  Shortly afterwards, I knew I was going to have problems.  We arrived at the Allensby Bridge checkpoint between Jordan and Israel and the line was long and there seemed like little movement.  We were instructed to stay on the bus, which we did for quite awhile.   From the bus we could see the long line of people with barely any movement.

After 45 or so minutes, the bus moved and we were all excited that we had been given permission to move to the empty tourist line, but all we did was make a circle and end up where we were.  Waiting even longer, we began to get very frustrated—though I expressed to some that people have to live with this daily.  With the bus door open, I tried speaking to one of the Israeli soldiers to determine the issue.  Finally, one came by. There were already mumblings on the bus why it was taking so long.  It turns out that the computers were down, but I was at least able to convince the guard Liad (all of 22) to escort 8 or so of us to the WC.  During our brief walk, I tried to schmooze my best—and whether it was the computers back on-line or the “nice rabbi with the Muslims”.

Getting through felt like another hour, especially when Plemon explained to the Passport control that a number of the Muslims on our trip need their passports stamped on a separate sheet of paper.  I finally stood behind with him my yarmulke and the other guard started to speak with me.  She was fascinated that I was a rabbi.  “Really?  Wearing cool sunglasses?”  She asked, “You do Bat Mitzvah for girls?  With talit and everything?  They read from the Torah?”  She giggled like the teenager she was and she grabbed the women next to her to repeat everything I had just said.  At the very least, we went through this part quickly.  The rest of the procedures took about half an hour but finally we made it through to our guide George and our new bus!

When we got on board, it was filled with flies.  Dozens of flies.  Jokes of biblical plagues were worn out quickly. George made some oblique explanation and suggested after ten minutes of having flies brush up against us and land on us that we open the window to let them out.  It did reduce the number, but at that point all I wanted to do was shower.  Not to mention, I was starting to burn up!

It was already mid afternoon and we off our schedule.

This Souks!

a clip of  the siouk

Travel days take a toll but they build group solidarity if they are not too unbearable. As we leave Egypt, we fly to Amman and then stay the night and wake up to drive to Jerusalem. Don’t as we too explain our circuitous routes, perhaps we are following one of the “possible” Exodus trails.

Before leaving, we stopped at a papyrus museum which was a pleasant surprise because of the quick witted Fatimah who showed us the remarkable traits of papyrus and how it is made from the plant. She was practically a comic who had a great schtick. Most of the pilgrims, bought beautiful designs including the story of lovers and the beautiful family tree where birds represent different members of the family.

Then we stopped at a downtown Souk in Cairo which was great sightseeing. Rev. Margaret and I quickly walked down the narrow areas looking at the brightly colored clothes, the containers of fruits, nuts and spices which looked like an artist’s palate and the piles of tchockes. Shopkeepers beckoning at us, using lines like “It doesn’t cost to look?” or “I only want your money”; they pointed to must have scarves, blouses, bookmarks and pyramid paperweights which most likely were made in China.
Despite being recommended not to (for worry of getting lost), we ducked down a side street that opened up to a beautiful ancient mosque. We watched a young boy lose a handful of pita from a box on top of his head. We were dismayed to see him pick them up and place them back in the box with the help of a man. Worse, he did it again as he lost balance . Margaret and I debated whether the 20 second rule applied on a dirty street. I think not!

It has been great to have a friend like Margaret on the trip who sees the world with both clarity and complexity. She is brilliant, has an infectious laugh that can be heard blocks away and because of this she is always good for a laugh: giving and a receiving.

The group then went on a river Nile sailboat. Needing some space I stayed on the bus and Rev. Jill stayed with me where upon we had a great conversation about progressive approaches to Judaism and Christianity. People had a great time on the boat and was grateful for a nice breeze since Cairo was unseasonably hot--10 degrees celsius higher than normal.

I worked on the blog as we waited for our flight which was tolerable. I sat next to a sheik in a white robe. The people further back were tormented by loud and rambunctious teens. It enraged Carolyn to no end, which while not fun for her is entertaining to hear her colorful description of the children and what she hoped would happen to them.

The hotel room was tiny but oh the workout room! It was great.

The time of seeing each other as enemies is out.

I feel fortunate for my time with Nassar---his stories of growing up in the time of segregation and integration bring to life a facet of the experience that I have studied and read about. The more people I know, the more it becomes textured and illustrated powerfully. While there are moment so of solemnity, he tells his story with a patience and a faith that only emerges from the most perseverant soul who knows hope triumphs. I find myself paying attention aas he slowly speaks measuring his words knowing their worth. As our group photographer, I have downloaded nearly 2000 of his pictures many of which are on the blog and many will begin to appear.
Each morning I hear him leave shortly after the faint call for Muslim prayer at 4:30 am. I must have been so exhausted because I slept through the call, his leaving and his return. He wakes me up with just enough time to pack and get ready for a demonstration and explanation of the Juma’ah prayer. Having prayed with Muslims many time I am able to follow the explanations. Each of the Muslims took part explaining the service, chanting in Arabic, reading the translations. Imam Plemon gave a teaching which was oriented to interfaith connections. He explained that it is common for him particularly after returning home on a trip like this he would give the same talk—it was not just for us. He combined Koran, with Imam WD Mohammed, MLK Jr., the Dalai Lama impressing upon us our common humanity.
I was particularly impressed by a quote from Imam WD Mohammed, bless his memory, that Plemon shared and I would like to share with you:

The time of seeing each other as enemies is out. We must be pleased to see Muslims being good Muslims, to see Christians being good Christians, Jews being good Jews. We must want success for any people, regardless of religious who believe in goodness and contribute to the good of human life and the future. We must come together and trust, respect and appreciate our common essence and sensitivities as human beings. Let each of us work for a productive mind that will enter and affect a change of the soul not just for one people but for the good of all people.

A beautiful morning and it just started.

Shabbat Dinner

As it happened coincidentally, we were all scattered for Friday night dinner and the Jews ended up gravitating together. Z smiled and said “this” I could do every Friday night. It was a gentle and sweet moment and I could feel the need for a little more time for Shabbat to sink in was necessary and since a Shabbas dinner is a central part of the connection and the practice, we were continuing our Shabbat experience. We began to share with each other our Shabbat practices, Betsy spoke of light Shabbat candles every Friday except when she was an usher at her one monthly service at Temple Sinai. Her grand niece said aren’t you lonely lighting Shabbat candles by yourself. She laughed and said, “Of course, not.” She then said some Fridays when she doesn’t feel like braving the dark or the traffic, she will go on line and fine Temple Sinai streaming their services and it allows her a connection. As one of the Hebrew school teachers, the streamed services allow her to watch all of her students even when she cannot be there since they are stored.

I laughed and explained to her that at my first suggestion of streaming services had been quickly shot down at CBH. She said that the debate at Temple Sinai was mostly whether it would encourage people to stay home, but it has not. We began to discuss the various ways streaming was making connections for people in hospitals, the homebound, people around the world . It sounds like all up sides—even the fear that it profanes Shabbat feels diminished by the importance of connections. But as we all knew just by being with each other, nothing replaces being with other people face to face

Shabbat: A Taste of Eden

Arriving back at the hotel after a day in Cairo, we had an hour to prepare for Shabbat. I had passed this delicious looking Swiss Icecream bar in the hotel for the past couple of days. Susan Levy and I thought this would be a great way to get ready for Shabbat and we each had a scoop of creamy coffee ice cream that was a Swiss form of gelato.
Before I left for the trip, I prepared abbreviated services from the new Sha’ar Zahav prayerbook, which helped us lead a beautiful service. The usage of the prayerbook was intentional since it had both masculine and feminine language choices, creativity and inclusivity. It is a product of some of the best progressive values reflected through tradition. I asked each of the Jews to reflect on one of the prayers that spoke to them.
It was such a sweet service with Susan, Z and Betsy each sharing what Shabbat means to them. We sang the Shabbos psalms and concluded within each others’ embrace. I felt people did not just learn about Judaism but they had a chance to experience it through the lens of the love imagery of the mystic’s adoration of the Sabbath. It was also a collective time to be centered and feel a sense of peace and rest.
One o f the concluding prayers made me smile hearing our diverse group read it together:
And then all what has divided us will merge.
And then compassion will be wedded to power.
And then softness will come
to a world that is often harsh and unkind.
And then both women and men will be gentle.
And then both men and women will be strong.
And then no other person will be subject to another's will.
And then all will be rich and varied.
And then all will share equally in the earth's abundance.
And then all will care for the sick and the weak and the old.
And then all will nourish the young.
And then all will cherish life's creatures.
And then all will live in harmony with each other and the earth.
And then everywhere will be called Eden once again.

Judy Chicago

Juma'ah in a hospital?

The Juma’ah Salat, or Friday prayer for Muslims is extremely important. A number of us were saddened that we were not going to be able pray with the Muslims as some of us had on past pilgrimages, but we understood that each culture had its norms and expectations. In the city we saw all of these grand masjids that the Muslims on our trip could choose from, and there was one beautiful one we had see from the palace of Salah-din where our guide said our group would pray Juma’ah. Somewhere in the works, our guide Yasser decided to make a change. Without giving people enough information to make choices, he dropped us off at the restaurant and to ensure that the Muslims would eat with us he chose a different prayer experience for the Muslims. Instead of seeing the inside of one of the beautiful Egyptian places of worship, he took them to a small cramped (and I heard kind of dirty) room in a hospital. How frustrating—I felt very disappointed on their behalf. The Muslims did not really complain as they returned, instead they rejoined us refreshed from prayer with the understanding that the whole world is a place of worship.

The Tower of Babel in Egypt?

Can you imagine a museum that is like your garage or attic where things are piled up nearly on top of each other with little wall or floor space? Now imagine that space with 100 people, 200 people…? The mammoth Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo is just like that. There are antiquities everywhere. And where there is any space there are visitors. The guide rightly said that it could take 6 months to see everything—and that they did have a basement where even more of the antiquities were stashed out of view. The only thing that makes the experience more intense is that the visitors were like what I imagine if I had been at the Tower of Babel, all speaking different languages, all with different cultural norms and all with different perceptions of space and distance.

Plemon later pointed out that with so much stuff no wonder there are vendors selling things everywhere with great persistence. Blame the museum for the culture of selling in abundance.

There were sarcophaguses (sarcuophagi?) to fill a decent sized cemetery and beautiful death masks—including the well known image of King Tut’s. By the way, the guide pointed out his slender body and budding breasts depicted in some of the statues of his likeness. The guide made some hand gesture indicating he might have been gay… and then quickly dispelled that with evidence of wives and children. I debated teaching our guide the word transgender but whispered to Margaret instead who was thinking along similar lines. While I couldn’t hear the guide over the din, the reason for the body, had to do with Tut’s father, who may have been transgender or due to some medication…I couldn’t quite understand… All I know, is that because it was the way his father’s statues were built and so somehow he was honoring his father that way.

With all of this homage to death and the second life around us, I am surprised we have not had much discussion of the afterlife in our traditions…perhaps a round of interviews are in order.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, Ben Stiller if you are following this I have the perfect spot for another sequel to A Night at the Museum

Alas, no cameras were allowed so you will have to see for yourself...

Here we have pictured Margaret, Carolyn, Jill, Jan and Susan

Women in the Masjid

I took pictures of everyone while we were sitting in the mosque. It seemed very serene. Pictured is Deborah, Bunny, Betsy, Barbara and Mary.

Places of Worship

On Friday we went to Salah-din’s palace and the Mohammed Ali Masjid. It was a beautiful masjid that was reminiscent on the Blue Mosque in Instabul. We gathered around and sat on the floor as we listened to Imam Plemon El-Amim.

Afterwards we went to the Hanging Church that had incredible mosaics that depicted the Holy Family’s travels in Egypt. When we went to enter the sanctuary, mass was happening so we stayed outside. Known as the Saint Virgin Mary's Coptic Orthodox Church also known as the Hanging Church it is one of the oldest churches in Egypt . The Hanging (The Suspended) Church is named for its location above a gatehouse of Babylon Fortress, its nave was suspended over a passage of a Roman fortress.
We left the church to go to the Ben Ezra Synagogue, which did not allow pictures. This relatively humble church was the home to the Cairo Genizah which was a huge discovery (a la Dead Sea Scrolls) giving us incredible insight into the Jewish world in Egypt. According to local tradition, it is located on the site of where baby Moses was found. The land for the synagogue was purchased in 882 CE for 20,000 dinars by Abraham ibn Ezra of Jerusalem.

Following this we went to St. George’s church which was also having mass, but this time we were allowed inside this Coptic Church.

Plemon's talk

Imam Plemon El-Amin spoke to our group about the basic tenants of Islam in the Muhammed Ali mosque.

Inspiration

This is a magnificent looking place of worship! This is inspiring me for Bet Haverim's future home. Can you tell I love the lights?

Also, bear with me as this is the first time I have ever used a video camera.

Assorted photos

More Pictures

Here are pictures of more pilgrims and our guide: Yasser

3 Places of worship

Today we drove into downtown Cairo to the Old City. We went to the masjid of Salah-din, similar to the Blue Mosque in Turkey this immense place of worship is awe inspiring with vaulted ceilings, beautiful glass and stone work and hundreds of lights adorning the room. There we listened to Imam El-Amin give an overview of Islam and the masjid.

The second stop was the most famous Coptic Church: The Hanging Church, where in the courtyard were the most exquisite mosaics. The most interesting were the legends they depicted of the holy family’s travels in Egypt. They were leading mass so we only had an opportunity to peek inside and see the interior. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hanging_Church

Then we went to the historic Ben Ezra synagogue where much of Jewish Egyptian life was uncovered when the Cairo Genizah was discovered in its attic. This discovery of texts and legal documents shedding light on Jewish Egyptian culture has been likened to the Dead Sea Scrolls of the 19th century. The synagogue was beautiful and charming. I spoke generally about synagogues, Shabbat and the genizah. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Ezra_Synagogue

Circles and Triangles

Last night, we gathered after dinner on a platform above the pool and the 16 of us crammed into an oval for a group meeting. Just as we began speaking the music began to play outdoors. I smiled, as the cheesy stylings of Roxette’s “Listen to Your Heart was blaring. We persevered as we listen to the instructions to explain to each other what draws us to interfaith. The number one commonality was people identified as “people persons”. They also shred how important it was to understand the other faith communities around them. A handful of people said they particularly came on this pilgrimage because we were going to Jerusalem and that they were traveling for family members who had always wanted to go to Jerusalem but died before they had the chance. One pilgrim explained that her mother had finally planned to go after wanting to go her entire, but canceled her trip as a result of her fear of violence there. Her mother died without ever seeing Jerusalem and that has been her lesson to not let fear or life stop her from doing what she wants to do.
I shared that I consider myself a universalist who inherited the Jewish story. And that my passion for Judaism mixed with my desire to connect to the divinity with people, made interfaith exciting and rewarding for me.

We circled again this time reflecting on the experience of the day. People expressed the awe and wonder at the pyramids—the hand of the Divine in the building of them. Caroline and I both expressed the sadness they represented to us. 10,000 people died creating the pyramids of Giza and they recently discovered their mass grave. I wondered out loud if we should have visited their graves too. One person shared that it was incredible to them that people would claim that aliens built the pyramids before recognizing that people from Africa had the technology and ability to build something so monumental and enduring.

Camels

Here are the intrepid pilgrims who dared to ride the camels.

Z and Barbara

Susan and Mary

Bunny and Margaret

Nafeesah and me.

Susan shared that when the camel began to upright itself, both she and Mary started praying. Susan said the Shema and Mary recited a prayer in Arabic. On the otherhand, Nafeesah started yelling that she was going to need therapy and I was laughing!

Sphinx

The Sphinx was awesome. The sandstone is eroding and prevention methods have not worked. I played "got your nose" with it, but it was not amused.

Integrating GA Government

Over dinner I sat with my roommate, Nassar and my partner for the day Jan Swanson. Nassar spoke about his patience when under Gov. Carter, the GA Govenmental agencies were told integrate. In 1971, Nassar was treated terribly by his boss at the GA Dept of Transportation where he was an engineer. He was told he should be a laborer and not behind a desk. Discovering a Klu Klux Klan paper on his desk, he responded with courage.

Jan spoke about how she became involved in working on issues of race after supporting MLK Jr. and working towards the end of the Vietnam War.

Great conversations, I was very moved.

Ahmed the camel (Bunny and Margaret)

We did not know the camel's name at first, but by the end we did!

A view from a camel

A number of us decided to take the camel ride near the pyramids. Dusty, but fun. I did get to pet my neighbor's camel a good while. They are wonderful creatures--until they spit.

Yassar explains why the tips of the pyramids are gone. Robbers!

Nafeesah gets lost

Nafeesah shares with the bus what happened when she got lost. And we discover, a common language.

Nassar and Nafeesah discuss their honeymoon

After discovering Nassar took Nafeesah to Valdosta, GA on their honeymoon, I had to ask...

Boundaries and Open Hearts

Today we had wake up calls at 6:30. I woke up and immediately started the day with some cardio at the hotel’s gym. I have a feeling that this will be the only hotel that has these kind of facilities. Skipping breakfast, I had a protein bar and made my way to the bus.
There is a global array of folks here. It is interesting to see so many cultures sharing their morning need for nicotine and caffeine. All of us were on time…well almost Nafeesah got lost coming from the bathroom for about 10 minutes, but we finally found her. The hotel grounds are large and circuitous.

Last night we began with an arrival reflection from the Muslim tradition so this morning Jill and I offered prayers for arrival and a reflection. I gave a kavannah (intention) before the Shehechiyanu prayer focusing on arriving within not just physically. I hoped that we did not fall prey to tourist consumption, needing to see everything in a frenzy but that we could be aware and present with each other , the people we were encountering and the places we were visiting. I also shared that the Jewish concept of pilgrimage involved sacrifice…meaning the desire to get closer—to one’s self, each other and a sense of godliness. Jill shared about the spiritual practice of eating. Reflecting that Jesus never missed an opportunity to share a meal; he used that time to teach. She said he ate with disciples, tax collectors, prostitutes, etc. ( I did ask her which one best represented us.) She then offered a beautiful spontaneous prayer of arrival.

At this point Yasser, our tour guide spoke to us about the pyramids that we were about to see. Before he began he gave us a lesson about how Egyptians identify themselves as Misri. Where does the word come from? Jews will recognize it as connected to Mitzrayim—the Biblical name for Egypt. The narrow places. In looking at the lay-out of Egypt, he explained that the East side of the Nile was used for worship, service, education, etc. and the West bank was for tombs, graveyards, and “2nd homes”—the residence of the afterlife. It was a bit surreal to see the Gisa Necropolis so close. Within the first pyramid, there were 5 tombs, but only two have been discovered. More than anything, I present to the awe and mystery the pyramids inspire. So many questions and theories exist but nothing definitive. Then secondly, I am humbled by the human labor involved. To make us feel better, the guide explained that there were no slaves, everybody participated willingly receiving water and food but their willingness was to participate in the spiritual reward. That still sounded like slavery to me.

I took an awesome camel ride with a handful of pilgrims and shared my camel with Nafeesah. Getting up and then off the camel was an exciting adventure.

The rest of the day we saw antiquities including the Sphinx and the discoveries at Memphis, but the poverty and the pollution were just as overwhelming as the history. Nassar and I began speaking about witnessing the human aspect and the difficulties of it. I also, was challenged by the necessity of being firm as people insisted that you buy something or have a picture taken. One woman in our group, was lifted up on a camel without asking and then she was let down after strongly suggesting that she give them some money. Another man took a picture with Egyptian police, who also harassed him for a few dollars in exchange. Boundaries and open heartedness—a hard combination. We also saw a number of small children leading horses and camels and we passed the dozens of carpet schools where young children help bring money for their families by learning how to weave rugs—but for how much? Our guides was illusive.

New Day

Had a nice conversation with Nassar Madyun about some of the similarities between Islam and Judaism. Not very familiar with Judaism, I explained where our connections began and what we consider to be our holy texts.

4:30 came early as did the lights, but luckily exhaustion beat out my tendency for insomnia and I was asleep again in minutes. Hopefully feeling refreshed and renewed the pilgrims will have a better chance to connect today. It will be one of our longest days since there is so much to see. I hope we don't fall into the trap of tourist consumption and rush to "see" everything with little to regard to being with what we encounter.

I found the wellness center (gym) at 6:30 am and did 30 minutes on the precor. Good way to start the morning. The hotel is already bustling.

I found 15 minutes to meditate and now we are on our way.

Blessings to all.

Joshua

In Cairo

Finally, arrived in Cairo tonight and have checked into the Park Pyramid resort. It is late. Talking with my roommate Nasar who grew up on a farm near Waynesboro, who is telling me his father's life lesson of "Whatever you choose to do, you do it right." It used to drive him crazy, but now those are words he lives by. He is trying to engage me in conversation now so I will write more later.

Why just 3 faiths?

As the former president of the Faith Alliance of Metro Atlanta, I agree that impactful exchanges when multiple faiths are participating together. At our FAMA gatherings we have had Sikhs, B'ahais, Hindus, Christians, Pagans, Jews, Buddhists, Muslims, Atheists and Unitarians--and then many denominations with some of the faiths.

This trip came out of the recognition that developmentally Judaism, Christianity and Islam are related and share stories, holy sites, practices and beliefs because of how we all originated. With the common understanding of Abraham as a uniting patriarch there is the possibility for us to be able to see our religious genetics changed within each other.

This does not mean that there will never be a WP trip for more than just the 3 Abrahamic faiths, in fact, I hope there will be one soon. Instead, in allows us to go a bit more deeply rather than spaciously--both approaches have merit.

Mary Salaam

Mary Salaam grew up in Newnan and is a member of the Atlanta Masjid of El-Islam. She is a LPN where she worked in the ICU, the medical unit and she is an entrepreneur working with insurance companies. She is also known for her reflexology skills. She has 4 girls and 1 boy, 16 grandkids, and 12 greats!

Pilgrims

Carolyn Davis is a life long Presbyterian and a close friend of Jan Swanson. She grew up in Atlanta and attended UGA where she studied journalism. She moved back to Atlanta and has been here ever since except for the two years she spent in NE Brazil in the Peace Corps doing public health.

Pilgrims

Jan Swanson, the organizer of the trip can usually be spotted around town wearing a Peace, Shalom, Salaam t-shirt. A life-long Presbyterian, she actively engages in Muslim and Jewish spiritual practices as a committed ally. A long time organizer bring Christians of different races together, her interfaith activism was the next logical step!

Pilgrimage

Three times today I have been asked in I am travelling for business or pleasure. Can I say, "Neither, I am traveling for spiritual purposes."

In the airport today, starting with the TSA agent people have remarked how dangerous it is to be going to the Middle East. Seeing my yarmulke, the big burly agent asked "Aren't you frightened? I am not even a Jew, and I would be scared." There is not even an ounce of fear--(well, my fears are about restrooms, their availability and cleanliness) in traveling to Jordan and Egypt only a sense of adventure. There is also the excited feeling of an anticipated deep reunion to arrive in Jerusalem.

When I explained the purpose of the trip, that people of Abrahamic faiths (Jews, Christians and Muslims) from Atlanta are traveling to better appreciate each others faith, and to visit each other's holy sites, he seems intrigued. Jill Ulrici, a Presbyterian Minister, and one of my fellow co-leaders jokes that I am already proselytizing. The line is empty so we speak for a few more minutes and I can tell the excitement has hit me.

This is my 3rd pilgrimage and each time not only do I return with an admiration of the beauty of Christianity and Islam, more allies in building a connected Atlanta, but I also fall in love with Judaism all over again.

This is what happens on the best pilgrimages, one comes armed with gifts, hopes and expectations. There is something in the transaction of the offering that draws everything closer. Sometimes leaving home, relinquishing the familiar allows an awareness to emerge and this lens brings us closer to what we hold dear. Dislodged from our crutches we are humble, more authentically human and if fear does not impede we rely on each other and upon our own wisdom allowing a connection of spirit. We leave home and yet we return to a home within ourselves that is less place and more Place. In Hebrew, it is Makom--a sacred name of God mean place.

There are 16 of us simultaneously searching for messengers of peace and holiness and offering those same messages to those we encounter on the journey. (Currently, the Imam behind me, Plemon El-Amin, the 3rd leader is explaining Islam's view on God to his neighbor.) We are Pilgrims leaving home to find it around the world and within ourselves.